Saturday, May 4, 2013

Andy Tauer Collectibles: ZETA + Giveaway

As the southern hemisphere finally shifts away from the sun and into the welcome embrace of autumn, Swiss perfumer Andy Tauer is the chattering bird that ushers in the northern spring with his brand new eau de parfum, 'ζ' ('Zeta'). With it's name borrowed from a letter of the Greek alphabet, Tauer was inspired to call it thus when he glimpsed the tiny blossoms tumbling from the tree... their delicate forms as they zig-zagged to the ground drawing this delightful letter in the air.

A striking new green flacon holds the flourishing elixir of summer: a fragrant hommage to the warmest season of the year. This, the first of Tauer's Collectibles, represents low volume manufacturing, and perfumes with exceptional quality ingredients that shift and change from harvest to harvest. Zeta is an ode to linden blossom - a fragrant flower that embodies the solar warmth and spirit of summer.



A glimmering citrus opening of lemon, bergamot and sweet orange provide a lip-smacking prelude to a compelling floral heart. Where one might expect the citrus tartness to dominate and linger, in actuality, it recedes rather swiftly and invites the blossoming core of ylang ylang, neroli, rose and linden to shift forward. This very tender nucleus gives the whole composition a soft-as-mohair quality... and with a base of creamy vanilla, orris and Mysore sandalwood, it becomes even more fleecy. I easily imagine weightless clouds of lemon-coloured Persian fairy floss dissolving on my tongue, or the sensation of cashmere brushing across my skin.

Zeta has been approached with great sensitivity. It has the hallmarks of a trademark Tauer scent, but also speaks of a new course in Andy's scented studies. Zeta will be available for purchase in 50ml size only, from mid April. Visit the Tauer Perfumes website for more info.


GIVEAWAY
In the meantime, however, Sorcery of Scent is pleased to offer 1 carded sample of Zeta to 3 lucky readers. Just leave a comment to this post and tell us which tree or flower you feel best epitomises the scent of summer. 3 names will be drawn on April 7th, and published here. Please be sure to include a means to contact you, if you are indeed a winner.

Good luck!

Thursday, May 2, 2013

5 Rare Guerlains in 5 Days - Day IV: Rue de la Paix



Long before Guerlain shifted into the famous address at 68 Champs Elysées, they had already long established their business on Rue de la Paix in the voguish 2nd arronissement of Paris. Nowadays perhaps best known for its jewellers, couturiers and milliners, Rue de la Paix has always existed as superlative shopping promenade for the well-heeled.

In 1908 Jacques Guerlain created Rue de la Paix: a perfume that paid hommage to the district and the haut monde that converged there. It was first presented in the Baccarat quadrilobe bottle, and later in the cobalt lantern bottle and goutte flacon. I can only suspect Jacques Guerlain's motivations in creating this scent might have been to meet the needs of those who frequented the area, (or indeed to sell the 'high society' lifestyle to those perhaps less affluent). This might account for why so few examples of this fragrance have survived until this day.



Rue de la Paix in vintage EDT form unfurls with sharp bergamot/citrus topnotes and dewy florals. There appears to be a crisp green floral accord just below the surface (muguet, perhaps?) and a shimmering peach-like aldehyde (that is not too far removed from that used in Mitsouko) in the opening. It is a rousing opening, but one crafted with a very measured hand (it is not as imposing as, for example, her aldehyde-rich floral younger sister Liu. But then Rue de la Paix, like the gentry who visited there, is perhaps more stately and refined). A lush rose heart and scattering of white florals furnishes the perfume with an appreciable air of femininity before the drydown reveals a very enjoyable bitter leather and musky base.
This is a perfume that embodies the vibrance of a Parisian cobbled shopping street, awash with colour and vivacity; and indeed one worthy of resurrection.

Tomorrow: Guerlain's Coque d'Or.

Monday, April 29, 2013

Calé Sample Winner!

Congratulations to Alessio - our winner picked at random to receive carded samples of both Fulgor and Roboris!

Alessio, please contact me from the email address you supplied with your entry using the email associated with my blogger account, and I will send you details on how to claim your prize!

Many thanks to all readers who participated.
Stay tuned for more giveaways and reviews to come!

Friday, April 26, 2013

New Year Blogging Event: 2010 In Review

This year Sorcery of Scent is pleased to be a part of the 2010 End-of-Year blogging event in which 14 avid blogs revisit the year that was and hand out gold stars for the scents that impressed, and red crosses for those that failed to come close.
(Be sure to visit the full list of participating perfume blogs at the bottom of this post).

Here are my picks for 2010...

Most desirable Flacon of the Year: L'Abeille de Guerlain
Yes, it costs an arm and a leg, but who can argue that the spectacular bee-shaped Baccarat crystal flacon limited to only 47 pieces worldwide isn't just the bees knees? Je l'adore!


Niche Perfume of the Year - Womens: Fleur Nocturne - Isabey
Honouring their rich heritage well into the 21st century, Isabey have epitomised ageless charm and timeless sophistication with this lavish spin on their early 19th century classic 'Bleu de Chine'.


Niche Perfume of the Year - Mens: Cuir - Mona di Orio
Effectively a unisex release, Mona di Orio's Cuir is a brawny, balsamic take on leather which is sensuous, bold and commanding. Its woody, smokey quality makes for a resolutely rugged scent with animalic undertones.


Niche Perfume of the Year - Unisex: Pink Quartz - Olivier Durbano
Durbano's inspired spicy chypre Pink Quartz appeals to both men and women... its delicate rose heart is piquant with fragrant saffron and Somali oliban. It had tongues wagging all over Esxence.
Runner Up: Opus III - Amouage


Designer Perfume of the Year - Womens: Idylle EDT - Guerlain
Thierry Wasser's new eau de toilette version of 2009's Guerlain release Idylle is a gorgeous floral focusing on the Bulgarian rose facets of the original. Spirited, lively, sexy. A winner in my book.


Designer Perfume of the Year - Mens: 10th Anniversary Fragrance - John Varvatos
Citrus, cinnamon, precious woods and leather seen through a swirling incense smokescreen make JV's 10th Anniversary Fragrance an assertive and powerful mainstream release. As a 2010 limited edition, get it before its gone.

Designer Perfume of the Year - Unisex: Wonderwood - Comme des Garcons
Quirky yet classy, Wonderwood crammed every possible wood accord into one bottle, and still managed to create something understated, sophisticated, and very avante garde. Two thumbs up!


Best Reformulation of the Year: Onda EDP - Vero Profumo
The lavish old-world atmosphere of Onda extrait has not been lost in this brand new eau de parfum incarnation. In 2010, Vero Kern tweaked the topnotes in the EDP to add more infinite depth and character. 10/10!


Worst Reformulation of the Year: Opium - Yves Saint Laurent
Booooo! Hisssss! L'Oreal have destroyed an old classic. Not only does the new flacon look cheap and tupperware-like, the new Opium formula is now a sad shadow of its former self. Yves must be turning in his grave. Unforgivable!


Best Emerging Luxury Brand: XerJoff
XerJoff went from strength to strength in 2010 as they expanded their portfolio of exceptionally crafted fine fragrances. Superb craftsmanship, quality materials and meticulous attention to detail have catapulted them into the stratosphere.



On a personal Note...

This year I had the pleasure of truly discovering the house of Guerlain. It has been an infinitely rewarding experience, and one that I feel will be ongoing.
On the whole I probably spent much more money than I should have, and much more time on the internet than perhaps my family might have liked; but as Sorcery of Scent steps over the threshold and into its 4th year, I would like to thank YOU - the reader - for your valued readership, contributions, comments and support. You make what I do worth the effort and the time spent in this noisy swivel-chair!

Happy New Year! Many rewards and blessings be with you in 2011.

Dimitri.

Check out the other participating blogs by clicking on the following links:


Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Profumi di Pantelleria

Few people are familiar with the Mediterranean isle of Pantelleria, located off the south west coast of Sicily. Its virtual isolation renders it a modern-day eden of unique plant species and awe-inspiring vistas that extend out over rocky bays and emerald green waters. The island of Pantelleria and its wealth of fragrances that pervade the cliffs, the paths and the surprising woods all serve as the inspiration behind Profumi di Pantelleria... a fascinating series of eight perfumes that each capture the essence of this far-flung isle.

Executed by nose Maurizio Cerizza under the diligent direction of Calé
's Silvio Levi, Profumi di Pantelleria have been fashioned with a great sensitivity to the art, and, I expect, the destination. Below are my brief insights on each of the scents from this appealing portfolio.

"Il Profumo di Pantelleria"
is a stirring citrusy green eau de parfum which is every bit as warm and sunny as a flourishing citrus glade where waxy leaves sparkle with morning dew and bushels of climbing jasmine and fragrant lavender are visited by humming, well-intentioned honeybees. Tufts of aromatic herbs like rosemary and and thyme furnish the perfume with a definite sense of the Mediterranean.

The Angel-esque perfume "Jailia" draws upon Pantellarian folklore of a beautiful Princess, and explores the essences of an enchanted garden. Rich and voluptuous notes of peach, tangerine and honeyed red fruits provide a lip-smacking prelude to a darker woody-amber base of vanilla, chocolate and patchouli. Jailia blankets the skin like the firm, enduring embrace of a lover... it is more-ish and compelling.

According to the notes accompanying my sample, "Dammuso" is the olfactory interpretation of the antique Pantellarian domicile; where families converge to recount their day in an ideal "buen retiro" surrounded by gardens. To my nose, however, Damusso is the Italian equivalent of a French l'eau... that is, an uncomplicated scent that vivifies and uplifts; here with shimmering citrus topnotes, and an enduring drydown of blackberry, green tea and pale musks.
"Nica" is an enchanting reference to the cornucopia of flowers, vineyards, and orchards prevalent on the island. Its opening accords of champagne grape and tangerine dance rapturously over a floral posy of yellow freesias and purple violets... the result is distinctly feminine in nature. Nica is vital and spritely and resonates in the nose in the same manner that a woman's laugh resonates in the ears.


The weightless eau de parfum "Aire" pays hommage to the shadow-speckled corners of the island where one can enjoy some welcome respite from the sun... the temperature sinks to a sympathetic degree with gentle gusts of white tea, white pepper and a tiny scattering of soft florals. Aire is as transparent as the open sky where crying gulls soar motionless on crisp oceanic updrafts. An enduring base of white musk and creamy tonka lingers on the skin like a rippling white hair-ribbon whisked away on the breeze. Aire would also serve as a spectacular way to scent your linen!
Whilst the majority of scents from this line can be easily enjoyed by both sexes, "Maestral" is potentially the most masculine of the line. I can easily fathom the inspiration for this perfume being the rugged Pantellarian shoreline, with its rocky cliff faces and wind-swept shoals. Rum, rhubarb and aromatic lavender communicate a sense of comfort and familiarity whilst cardamom, vetiver and cedarwood evoke a feeling of resilient, grounded earthiness. A tiny floret of iris and jasmine perhaps remind us that within every man there is a tenderness to be found. Maestrale is as bold and commanding as the rolling sea; yet as tranquil as the calm that comes after the deluge. A personal favourite.


"Tanit" was the name given to the goddess who was celebrated for centuries in the Mediterranean basin, and also the name given to this tenacious eau de parfum - one that demonstrates an epic strength of character. Tanit is unrelenting in its femininity with aromatic topnotes of basil and zesty ginger coupled with a variety of dramatic florals: peony, magnolia jasmine and osmanthus. A delicious undertone of patchouli and musk liken it in style to the exotic attars of Asia Minor. Just as the notes supplied with my sample suggests, Tanit represents "feminine sensuality combined with determination and presence of mind".
Finally, there is Approdo, a perfume that marries the scent of the sea with that of the land; where salty, mineralic notes lap gently against basil, tangerine, soapy vetiver and summery Mediterranean flowers. Approdo is clean and refined and evokes a strong sense of basking under a warm Mediterranean sun on the stern of a boat with a sheer spray of saltwater settling across your body.

Unfortunately, many of us will never visit the shores of Pantelleria, but Profumi di Pantelleria offers the wearer a unique and rare opportunity to experience her from afar. And for those who have had the pleasure of walking her worn tracks and who have looked out over the Mediterranean from an outcrop high above the sea, what better a souvenir to take home with you?
Profumi di Pantelleria are available from www.essenza-nobile.com and retail for 105 euros for 100ml.



Monday, April 22, 2013

4 Different Color LED Electric Scent Diffuser Mood Lights - Have Humidifier & Timer Function


Features
  • Electric Scent Diffuser to Improve your Mood
  • 4 Different Color LED Mood Lights
  • Mood Light in Bright or Dim Mode
  • Minimalistic Modern Design C Less is More
  • Also Functions as a Humidifier & Timer Function

List Price: $54.99
Get this month Special Offer: check this out!

Product Description
If you are a scented candle lover, how often have you experience running out of those enchanting candles when you need one? With this electric aroma diffuser that problem will be history. Any scented oil or perfume at home can be diffused through this health and lifestyle gadget. The only thing you need to do is to mix your captivating perfume or oils with water to experience a state of blissful enchantment. As a candle lover, you understand more than anyone that each fragrance has its own color and character, carries its own distinct energy, and fits a specific mood. What is so special about this electric candle is the fact that you can choose between 4 different mood colors that suits your special moment. Moreover, this diffuser also functions as a humidifier if you only fill it with water. If you are like many others who know the joy of buying candles with aromas that promise soothing, yet invigorating experiences, then you must realize that this is a golden opportunity to get this beautifully designed multifunctional scented electric candle. Don't hesitate, get it now! Our products and our prices are sure to take your breath away. The leader in health and lifestyle electronic gadgets. Manufacturers SpecificationsTimer Function: 180/120/60/30 minutesNumber of LEDs: 6LED Brightness Level: Low/HighLED Colors: Red/Green/Blue/WhiteInput Power: AC100~240V 50/60HzOutput Power: DC 24V 600MaVolt: 16WApplicable Area: 10-20 square meterProduct NotesShould use a wet cloth to clean inside after every useCan use perfume or oils, but highly recommended to mix with water (pure oil is to thick to spray out, easier to clean, less waste)The right mix of water and perfume/oil is up to the customerPackage ContentsAromatic Scent DiffuserEnglish ManualEU Power AdaptorMeasuring Cup


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Saturday, April 20, 2013

Molton Brown - Navigations Through Scent - 5 Reviews


British toiletry giants Molton Brown have stepped up to the mark in 2011 and produced 5 brand new fragrances in a compelling "Navigations Through Scent" line. This series marks a natural evolution towards catering to the fine fragrance market for the first time in the company's 40 year history.

"Navigations Through Scent" celebrates the origins and history of perfume and the importance of the rare ingredients used. Following some of the ancient and modern trade routes, Molton Brown's perfumer Jennifer Jambon spent over a year exploring each site, identifying the raw materials that best represent each location on the map. Egypt, China, Indonesia, England and Canada have all been referenced, with their longitudinal and latitudinal coordinates marked out cleverly on the bottle and box.

Sorcery of Scent is pleased to briefly review each new fragrance from the line.


IUNU

Inspired by Egypt, Iunu is a voluptuous perfume which unifies bewitching oriental facets and enchanting spices. A dancing heart of Egyptian jasmine absolute and ylang ylang is afire with piquant black pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon and clove... the result an interesting play between pure innocence and unashamed carnality. A wonderful ribbon of incense and myrrh lends a weightless esoteric quality, whilst sandalwood and patchouli anchor it to the earth again. A perfume which is constantly evolving - twirling like a naked dancer - Iunu is an intricate scent of empowerment and carnal collusion.


LIJIANG

A Chinese love story told in hushed whispers, from behind cupped hands. Lijiang is a beautiful, diaphanous perfume that's as sheer and delicate as a fine paper lantern and has the stunning tactile quality of shot silk. Crisp white tea and Chinese osmanthus feature in this scent, which have been masterfully blended with shimmering bergamot and transparent white musk. Pink berries also provide a soft vermillion blush across Lijiang's milky white cheeks. Luminous, ceremonious and unostentatious, this perfume is as good as osmanthus and white tea gets! A true beauty.


SINGOSARI

Indonesian patchouli is the protagonist of this perfume; a recital of olfactory chiaroscuro where the tropics are speckled with sun and shadows. Singosari is dewy - like a rain-soaked landscape drying swiftly under the equatorial sun. There is a slightly cool, 'minty' quality to the perfume furnished by the patchouli, and this is played off against a clean vetiver background. This perfume doesn't feel too far removed from Tom Ford's White Patchouli in its approach, but a faint huff of spice and incense takes it to another territory, adding a slightly darker layer.
Singosari feels harmonious, sensual and warm.



APULDRE

Fancy a tipple? Apuldre won't disappoint with its armoury of accords from gin juniper, to fermented grapes to absynthe! Perhaps it's no coincidence that Apuldre means 'Appletree' in old Saxon english, because Apuldre's striking green opening notes capture the feeling of rolling hills and open English countryside... it is grassy and sappy, but also boasts a floral / aromatic huff of lavender. In a sense, Apuldre feels both traditional and resolutely contemporary at the same time. A slight hint of cedar wood conjures images and impressions of a damp forest floor.


ROGART

A scent of contradictions, Rogart is both austere and embracing, frigid yet comforting. Taking its inspiration from Canada, Rogart has a lip-smacking maple syrup note at its core, evoking feelings of warmth and comfort. Obversely, elemi, coriander and juniper lend a chilled, "crisp-air" association, and the two qualities lock horns like a pair of mountain stags. The contrast is profound. Fir balsam and a whisper of smoke lends a feeling of familiarity and having "just stepped in from the cold" to a raging fire in the range. Rogart is a unique paradox between opposites with woody, slightly gourmand qualities.



Interestingly, Molton Brown have chosen not to use a rigid perfume classification (EDC, EDT, EDP), for these scents, asserting instead that across this range their perfumes contain an average of 11.6% perfume concentrates. (Personally, I, the author, find most of these on par with a standard EDT or EDP).

The Navigations Through Scent series launches in Harrods this month and widely in the UK from September.